Hangin' with the Romans
September 14th
We had a low key day today but did manage to tour the Roman Theater ruins just across the street from our apartment. The Roman Theatre of Arles was built on a small hill around the year 12-13 BC. The site was dedicated to Apollo, and richly decorated in honor of Caesar Augustus who was emperor at the time. The Theatre had semi-circular seating for 10,000 spectators, a stage and an elaborate scene set. There are still performances upon a modernized stage and we happen to be in town for the "Rice Festival" so we can hear the music and just get a peek at the dancers and entertainers from our window!
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Our apartment window is the lower one with blue shutters in the middle of the photo |
The Garden Cafe up the corner has great views for an aperitif so we have been going there each evening before dinner. We met a couple from Omaha who are in France for 12 days on a whirlwind driving tour that includes Arles, Nice, Cinque Terra (in Italy), Beaune and Colmar...whew! We like to stay put a bit longer in each location.
Dinner at Le Criquet just down the street was recommended by our VRBO hosts so we made a reservation and were not disappointed. Jay ordered an octopus salad and calamari main course while I had a very interesting fish soup with croutons that you slather with a yummy aioli then plop into the soup and top with grated cheese. My main course was a Sandre fish cooked perfectly and served over ratatouille. We had a nice bottle of Rose but no room for dessert. We are returning on Saturday and will definitely leave room for something off their wonderful menu of sweet offerings.
By the Sea, By The Beautiful Sea
September 15th
Jay read about the trail today and it sounded really great...a straight flat traffic-free bike route. It was a little too far to start in Arles so we drove down halfway and started at the town of Mas Thibert. There were no stops along the way so we rode the 25 km to the town of Port-Saint-Louis-du-Rhone, where the Rhone river dumps into the Mediterranean. We found a park with a picnic table along the water and enjoyed the view. At a nearby table some local men were playing chess and having a grand old time. Down a few yards was a large river cruiser waiting for it's passengers to board. Across the park men were setting up tents for some kind of celebration taking place over the weekend. Quite a busy little harbor was located just around the corner with tons of boats moored and an especially lovely sailing ship. A nice little break since we had to ride the 25km back to the car with a pretty stiff headwind. It's times like this I really love my little motor and Jay does as well since he can draft me for a change.
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On our rides we've seen how France is totally committed to green energy...wind machines, solar panels and hydro power...Vive la France! |
I had been eyeing the creperie next to the Garden Cafe and as we walked back from the car park to our place we noticed it was finally open. A quick stop and we had a reservation for 7:00pm, exterior. All the restaurants want to know if you want to sit inside (interior) or outside (exterior) Now say that with a french accent - x tare e or 😉. On a nice evening why sit inside when the view and people watching outside is so much fun. Our meal at Creperie Chez Mam Goz was outstanding and we quickly decided to return. It has become our "MO" to keep patronizing the same places for dinner. Are we just lazy or are we really clever to find such gems?
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| Goat cheese and roquefort with honey and walnuts |
The Long and Not-So-Winding Road
September 16th
Yesterday's ride was the second half of the pathway from Arles to the sea so today we tackled the first half. It was only about 40km roundtrip instead of 50 but the wind was even stronger on our return. We flew down to Mas Thiebert, stopped for a drink of water and headed back. We took our lunch with us as usual but we made it back before 12:30 so didn't need to eat on the trailside. It was nice to have the afternoon to explore the city a little more.
The Roman Amphitheater was on our agenda so we walked the 40 or so steps over to the entrance and went inside. The Amphitheater was built during the last 10 years of the 1st century A.D. and was used for entertainment such as gladiator jousts and bullfights. Bullfights are still performed about four or five times a year. We just missed seeing one the weekend before we arrived and they actually killed the bull. I'd like to see all the pomp and circumstance of a bullfight but I think I would have to leave before the end. It kind of turns my stomach just to think about it.
Speaking of stomach, our dinner at Chez Mam Goz was again very delicious! The waitress seemed to really like us for two reasons I think. The first is that we made a reservation and the second is that we came back two nights in a row! She showed us to an even better table with the best view from the terrace of the Roman Amphitheater in one direction and the Roman Theatre in the other. I'm sorry we don't have time to return again as those crepes are the best I have ever eaten!
Saturday in Arles is Market Day and boy do they know how to put on a Market! We walked down to one of the main streets in town that is totally blocked off every Saturday from early morning until probably at least 1 or 2 o'clock. By the time we walked through it was nearly lunch time so we purchased some paella, a baguette, fruit, croissants and “pave du poulet” which is probably the best chicken we have ever eaten. We tried to google how they make it but it is essentially both light and dark meat rolled up and fried with the skin on and no bones. We couldn't figure out how they did it but boy was it something!
This weekend is a big Festival in Arles, the European Heritage Days, and all of the sites are free to visit. We took advantage and went to the Thermes de Constatin, the 4th Century AD Roman Baths and the Van Gogh Foundation which supports different artists. The artwork was interesting and mostly done by one artist, Nicole Eisenman. The view from the top of the VG Foundation was amazing. We love seeing all of the tiles roofs across the city.
Our last dinner in Arles was again at Le Criquet. This time we both decided on their
specialty which is a fish stew. The two sisters who are the only waitresses and they
are so delightful. They both remembered us from several nights ago.
We have to bid farewell to Arles and our nice little apartment above the best shop in town.
I purchased a cute little pottery quail that was handmade in a nearby town.
