Monday, September 26, 2022

Toulouse

Last on the List

September 23rd     

Our last destination for our 2 month journey in France was Toulouse.  We arrived around noon   and immediately found ourselves in major traffic...autos, bikes, motor bikes and pedestrians all going every which way.  I spotted a parking garage sign and we turned in and ended up on a very narrow ramp into the garage.  After parking in yet another tiny parking place we walked around trying to find our rented apartment.  We got close but ended up calling the property manager who told us the place was ready and gave us entrance instructions.  The next task was to get the car from above mentioned garage to the apartment parking inside the gate.  Thank goodness for google maps and directions because we wound our way through narrow streets, past outdoor restaurants and finally to our coveted parking lot.  Whew! Stressful for poor Jay but we were safely parked and able to unload quickly.






































Since it was a nice afternoon we grabbed the bikes and headed for a ride on what we thought would be the Canal du Midi but the Canal du Garonne takes off from the port in Toulouse and had a wonderful paved and smooth surface.  We rode out for about 15km before turning around to return.  Getting from the canal to the apartment is a little challenging with all the congestion within the city but we made our way back...without injury.

After unpacking it was time for an aperitif and then dinner.  The weather forecast was for rain but it hadn't started so we sat at an outside table at a little place at the end of our street.  Just as we were about to finish the rains came down and we ran inside.  The waitress was very kind and put us at a table until it was time for us to leave.  We noticed there was a burger place across the street so we made a run for it and were seated inside by yet another very friendly waiter.  The burgers came quickly and they were fantastic!  Dare I say the best burger we've ever tasted?  At this point...yes!  We told the waiter that and he said something to the effect of "it's the beef."  We asked what kind and he didn't know exactly but that it was actually from Italy.  All I can say is, Bravo!

















Our apartment that we rented through Riverside Toulouse isn't the best place we've stayed.  There are a few issues with the air-conditioning/heating unit, the washing machine doesn't work, Jay had a cold shower and there is no dish soap or any soap for that matter.  Oh well, we only have a few days here and now that we're parked safely we realized we are very central to restaurants, sights and the riverside.  I'm sure it will all be fine.


















Footloose in Toulouse

September 24th

We needed clean underwear, which happens about once a week, so we headed off around the corner to do some laundry.  Because it was a Saturday morning and we are in the middle of the college student area I decided to get to the launderette sooner than later.  It was pretty interesting to see the different students come in and out and I was a little horrified at the way they just took their clothes straight from the dryer in a wad and shoved them into a shopping bag or backpack. Meanwhile I neatly folded our garments and placed them in our packing cubes to haul back to the apartment in my carry-on suitcase.  I kept thinking I was glad their mothers weren't there to witness this travesty. 😂

The train station was our next destination for the day and since it was a 30 minute walk away we stopped for lunch and did a little exploring on the way.  We found the station and the taxi stand where we will be dropped off and the displays with the track information so we are set for our departure.  I purchased tickets online for the TGV back to Paris which is about a 4 hour journey.

On our way back to the apartment there were booths set up along one of the avenues for kids to experience different activities.  One group was learning to drum, another doing artwork and the last one was a kid bouncing from table tops to ramps on his bike.  He was pretty amazing!





















We were in the mood for pizza and found a place on our walk, made a reservation and returned promptly at 7:30.  A quick stop at the local Irish Pub is always on Jay's agenda and today was no different.  The Melting Pot is an interesting name for an Irish Pub but it had all the familiar pieces...wooden keg tables, soccer jerseys hanging on the ceiling and of course Guinness.  On to the restaurant.  The pizza's were really great, cooked in a wood fired oven with fresh ingredients to satisfy our appetites and then some. 




 


























The day flew by and it seems like we didn't accomplish much but at least we have clean undies.



Beautiful Bateau!

September 25th

It was a cool morning so we took a little time getting out the door with our bikes.  We drove up along the Canal du Garonne and found a place to park and started riding in the direction of Bordeaux which is 194km from Toulouse.  The trail is one of the best we've ridden and may have to come back to complete the circuit in the future.  The canal is beautiful and we stopped to watch a beautiful little barge chug along the waterway and through one of the locks.  This was our last bike ride of the trip and it was a wonderful way to end our two month bike adventure!





















Toulouse has a lot of waterways coming in and out and is very near the sea so having seafood was a must for tonight.  As we walked around yesterday we went by a seafood restaurant that looked good so made a reservation at Chez Jeannot.  The menu is loaded with oysters, shrimp, mussels, etc and the fresh board of fish is extensive as well.  We shared the homemade smoked salmon starter and Jay opted for the Risotto Coquilles Saint-Jacques while I ordered the Monkfish Cheeks recommended by our waitress.  Oh my...what a delight!  I love scallops but Jay even agreed my dinner surpassed his in flavor.  Another fantastic meal in France...Weight Watchers here I come!


















Best or Worst

September 26th

This is the best and worst day of the trip.  It's best because we are excited to get home after two months of great travel adventures but the worst because it is time to pack.  Packing for trip is more fun than packing up to go home.  We returned our leased Renault Arkana to the airport this afternoon and now we are trying to fit all of the parts we brought and all of the purchases we've made into our allocated luggage.  This is not a small feat!

Our packing was taking longer than expected so we hurried up to the burger joint for a quick lunch. It's a good thing I can't take this place home with me!
















One final restaurant in Toulouse and it's a wrap!  La Gouaille is a tiny place with wonderful simple food and warm service.  We both had the Magret de Canard, duck breast and it was really delicious.  Perfectly seared on the outside and medium/rare on the inside.  It was a bit too large for me to finish but Jay soldiered on to the end.  

























Sometimes I feel like all we do is bike and eat. We do try to throw in a few museums and historical sights along the way when time allows so we at least know what is significant about the places we have visited.

Until next time...Au revoir!






Sunday, September 25, 2022

Carcassonne

Cassoulet in the Cité


September 21st


On our drive to Carcassonne we stopped at a picnic area just outside of the city and to our delight we had a fantastic view of the Cité (walled city) while we ate our lunch.  























We checked into the charming B&B La Cour Carree, which is located on a lovely tree-lined avenue in the city center just 20 minutes walk to the Old Cité.  Once we were settled Regis gave us quick directions and we walked to the castle hill.  The walk was indeed UP hill but worth the time even though the old city was jammed with tourists buying all kinds of souvenirs. 










 



























A little bit of history...Carcassone was the seat of power of the Counts of Carcassonne in the 12th Century.  Royal forces seized Carcassonne from 1209-1229.  In the 19th century, the city was on the verge of demolition and was used as a stone quarry.  Over a 50 year period restoration was done to give it back it's medieval appearance.  It is the largest intact walled city in Europe, larger even than Dubrovnik in Croatia. The views from the hill are spectacular and we took ample photographs from every angle of the castle hill.





























We had a recommendation from two lovely gentlemen from the Netherlands to make a reservation at Comte Roger located in the Cité...so we did.  The restaurant is a Michelin reviewed establishment and it lived up to it's billing.  The food was wonderful, the service very friendly and the cost was really reasonable to our surprise.  To start we shared the foie gras which was sautéed and served over caramelized apples with a little salad atop.  I normally am a little grossed out by what they do to a goose to get this delicacy but they had me at caramelized apples.  Also it is a specialty of the region.  Next I chose the cassoulet which is another famous dish in this area and Jay had the pork chop.  Whenever we order pork we like to say we are supporting the Vogt family hog farm that our son-in-law grew up on in Minnesota.  All I can say is...Wow! What a dinner and the atmosphere to match made it a very special evening!









































































































































Cruising on the River...Or the Canal 


September 22nd


With only one day to ride on the canal out of Carcassonne we started in an easterly direction only to find the trail was too rocky and narrow.  I had read that the Canal du Midi is best suited for mountain bikes because the terrain is very uneven.  (Oh yes, very!)  Once we turned around we found the trail to be a bit wider and had a smoother surface for the most part.  As we came to one of the locks we overheard a couple speaking english while navigating their rental boat through the lock.  I asked where they were from and wouldn't you know it they were from Mercer Island.  They invited us on board for a cruise through the next few locks so we hopped on with the bikes and were off.  We had a fun time chatting with Bob and Ann and exchanged contact info so we can touch base once we are back in the states.  Bob is an FAA test pilot and has been working on the 737Max for the last several years.  He assured me it is most likely the safest plane out there at this point. 

































Since we had some fairly mediocre meals in Sete (we've been spoiled by the delicious food we've had in France) I decided to do my homework for Carcassonne and read about a great tapas place that sounded good.  As it turned out we walked right by it on our way to Comte Roger so stopped to make a reservation and boy are we glad we did.  Agape is owned by a darling couple, Gaetan who is the chef and his lovely wife Charlotte is the server.  It's very small and intimate and the only thing you get to choose is the table you want to sit at and the wine.  All the other courses, of which there were 7, are chosen and prepared by the chef and served to you with a complete explanation of ingredients.  This was so much fun and the food exquisite!  We sat next to a couple from Northern Ireland who were a real hoot.  Mark is from Scotland originally and Heather from Ireland. They live in Bangor, a beautiful coastal city near Belfast.  One of the highlights of traveling is meeting "little while" friends.


Green Gazpacho

























Seafood Bruschetta


























Gnocchi in Gorgonzola Sauce


























Kabobs of Potato, Pepper and Chorizo


























A Savory Tart









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